You definitely know that some personalities cannot follow all the rules and laws, they always contradict to common views and thus willi nilly get in the center of attention. At the SIHH 2010 such role of a “rule breaker” was played by the novelty by Cartier – the Rotonde de Cartier tourbillon watch. Being different from other watches from the collection this watch became the most spectacular one.

This watch features a spectacular mechanical movement with manual winding – the 9455 calibre flying tourbillon that is justly considered to be a true work of art. The balance spring is pinned to a grooved plate with a rounded collar stud – this provides more precise centring for better movement regulation. The escapement wheel is very light, due to this the effect of its inertia on the regulation of the movement is provided.

The watch features a skeletonised main plate and bridges that form stunning Roman numerals. The design of the watch amazes by its perfection: it features an XII, III and IX that frame the carriage of the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

The movement of the timepiece is stamped with the Geneva Seal and features an individually numbered certificate of origin. The certificate confirms that the movement is up to the criteria of perfection set out by the Office for the Voluntary Inspection of Watches from Geneva.

The case of the watch is made out of 18 carat white gold and measures 45 mm. The crown of the timepiece is circular grained, it is made out of 18 carat white gold set with a sapphire cabochon. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal, the case-back is also a transparent sapphire crystal. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. The strap is made out of black alligator leather and features a folding clasp that is made out of 18 carat white gold.

Together with this watch, Cartier presented many great novelties and this was expected, because being the creator of such legendary watches as Cartier Tank, Cartier Divan and many other masterpieces, Cartier is always expected to amaze public by its truly fantastic watches.

Cartier has just released two new models for its new “Les Must” collection of watches and other luxury goods. This is not the first time the name has been used for a Cartier line, but these products are new – at least that is what Cartier tells us (as the watches look so similar to what has been in the past and present for Cartier). Cartier was never one for mainstreaming complex designs and these two Les Must Tank Solo and Ronde Solo watches pretty much epitomize the elegant simplicity of Cartier. Further still, the watches appear to be simplified versions of Cartier’s other Tank and Ronde watches.

Both models have male and female sized versions. I pictured only the male versions because the female versions are almost identical, just a bit smaller. All of the watches have Swiss quartz movements, that most Cartier buyers are OK with. Serious watch lovers tend to prefer mechanical watches, but the perception is that Cartier watch buyers are interested first in the name, second in the look, and third in telling the time. To remove any obviousness of the movements being quartz, Cartier removed the seconds hand so as to prevent the sight of a ticking hand. The cases are in steel and elegantly shaped, though intentionally simplified. This also goes with the steel bracelets.

Aside from that the details are all rank-and-file Cartier. Blue cabochon in the crown, Roman numeral dial, blued sword hands, and the silvered Opaline dial. My feeling is that the collection is meant to be a lower cost selection in response to far lower luxury spending these days. It is wise for Cartier to give its fans something more along the lines of what spending habits have been, to keep them interested in the brand. In a few years we will see higher priced new models once again.

Cartier CR WJ306008. Baignoire S in white gold. White diamonds and pink sapphires. Silver dial with sun-like finish and lacquer. Workshop-crafted manual mechanical movement – Cal 97770MC.

White gold adjustable deployant buckle paved with diamonds. Limited and numbered edition of 20 pieces.

The luxurious and sparkling with the finest diamonds but at the same time touching and amusing watch with Panda was presented by Cartier within its Le Cirque Animalier collection. The collection of timepieces with animal motifs was inspired by beauty of the wild nature.

A gentle and familiar panda arrives on the scene in a plump collection of black sapphires and diamonds. The precious miniature animal holds a disc of black enamel in its paws, embossed with bamboo stalks and eucalyptus leaves in white enamel to reflect the delicate landscape of China.

The watch is housed by an 18k rhodium-plated white gold case set with round diamonds. It is decorated with the finest diamonds. Besides, to create an image of a panda on the dial the watchmakers used black sapphires and emeralds with some details outlined in black enamel.

The Cartier Panda watch is accompanied with an elegant dark grey canvas strap with an ardillon 18k white gold buckle set with round diamonds.

The watch was produced in a limited edition of 50 individually-numbered timepieces. Sparkling with diamonds and amusing with the touching image of a panda bear the Cartier watch makes one of the most beautiful jewellery timepieces in the world.

Look closely at the Ballon Bleu watch and you will see that it is more than just a round watch. Dial-side and case back, the watch is rounded, giving it the likeness of a pebble when seen in profile. It is this characteristic that marks and unites the collection, above all others. This design cue is unique to the Ballon Bleu, making it distinct from Cartier’s other noble watches.

Contrary to what one might assume, the pebble-shape does not make this watch difficult to wear. Instead, it gives a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch the appearance of floating magically just above the wrist. In effect, the watch appears to orbit the wrist, to return to the cosmological metaphor.

The mixed watches Cartier “Ballon Blue” is the new best-sellers of the house Cartier. Round index Roman guilloche dial and sword hands – signs of identity of the house – at first glance, this watch seems ultra classic. It deserves, however, that it focuses on one detail in particular. Its funny winder, which gave its name to the line, is decorated with a cabochon sapphire embracing in a circle of gold. An unlikely focused satellite in orbit.

The Tank is a typical Cartier icon, with an beautiful iteration here fitted with a flying tourbillon. The Tank Americaine Tourbillon Volant (another name for flying tourbillon) goes back the original (well the most popular at least historically) squared luxury watches.
 The difference being the intensity of the lugs as they connect to the sides of the case sandwiching the dial.
Take a look at the beautifully large crown with equally impressive sapphire crystal cabochon. Operating it lets you feel the smooth, manually wound mechanical Cartier caliber 9452MC with flying tourbillon complication and Geneva Seal. Power reserve is 50 hours.
Going along with the the style of today, the Tank Americaine is aptly large at 52mm tall and 36mm wide. The case is 18k rose gold, and the hands, as always, are heat-blued and lovely. A bold follow up to a Cartier classic.